Tilos, a rugged gem rising strikingly from the azure Aegean Sea, lies nestled between Rhodes and Kos in the Dodecanese archipelago. This unspoiled paradise offers all the quintessential charms of a Greek island – crystalline waters, whitewashed houses, wonderful food, and sunshine from March through November. What sets Tilos apart, however, is its commitment to green policies and a zero-waste ethos, making it a haven for eco-conscious travelers.
Follow this comprehensive Tilos travel guide to uncover what to see, where to swim, what to eat, and how to get around this remarkable island.
Why Go To Tilos Island?
- For Eco-Tourists: Explore the Tilos Energy Project and participate in the eco-tourism festival.
- For Hikers: Five well-marked trails offer breathtaking views and historical exploration.
- For History Enthusiasts: Discover Tilos’ fascinating past through its archaeological sites and museums, from the Byzantine-era Castle of the Knights to the Neolithic relics in the Archaeological Museum.
- For Foodies: Enjoy local delicacies like roast goat and moussaka, and don’t miss the Greek sweets paired with coffee.
Introducing Tilos
Tilos is an off-the-beaten-path destination, even for seasoned Greek island explorers. Hard to reach and free from the bustling summer crowds, Tilos retains its tranquil charm throughout the year.
The island comprises three settlements, one bus, a handful of pebble-strewn beaches accessible without trekking, several museums, a monastery, a Knight’s castle, dozens of taverns, and a singular night bar.
Each of these elements contributes to Tilos’ unique, laid-back atmosphere.
The main port and most popular place to stay is Livadia, while the hillside village of Megalo Horio (Big Village) serves as the island’s capital. Agios Andonios, a former fishing port, lies to the north.
Tilos is notable for its progressive social initiatives, including energy autonomy and zero-waste policies.
Its humanitarian values are equally commendable, as the island has been recognized for its significant role in aiding migrants during the European refugee crisis.
Perhaps just as importantly, Tilos has become a pioneer in renewable energy with the Tilos Energy Project, making the island self-sufficient through solar and wind energy.
If you’re here in September, don’t miss the annual eco-tourism festival, a celebration of sustainability and local culture.
If you’re after a party scene, Tilos might not be the ideal choice. Its appeal lies in peacefulness, rather than nightlife.
Getting to Tilos
By Air
Reaching Tilos is a journey in itself, requiring time and planning. The nearest airport is on Rhodes, approximately 30 miles away. However, ferry schedules often necessitate an overnight stay on Rhodes before continuing to Tilos.
By Ferry
Ferries are the sole means of reaching Tilos:
- Opt for a direct ferry from Athens, which takes about 16 hours (day and night) and runs twice a week (approximately €80 one way).
- Alternatively, catch a local ferry from Rhodes (departing from the Old Town port or Kamiros Skala) or other Dodecanese islands like Kos.
Ferryhopper is an excellent resource for planning inter-island travel. I always book my tickets through them and I like their app and their customer service.
Island Hopping
Tilos’ central location in the Dodecanese makes it an excellent base for island hopping. A suggested route is to begin in Kos, explore Nisyros, Tilos, and Chalki, and conclude in Rhodes with a day trip to Symi.
Getting Around Tilos
1. Public Transportation: the Eco-Friendly Bus System
Tilos has a single 10-mile road connecting its settlements, beaches, and attractions.
The island’s electric bus service, celebrated in international film festivals, operates on a well-planned summer schedule. Tickets cost €1-€1.50. The bus runs on an eco-friendly electric system, emphasizing the island’s commitment to sustainability.
It connects the key villages of Livadia, Megalo Horio, and Agios Andonios with popular beaches like Eristos, making it easy for visitors to explore the island over a few days without a car.
2. Vehicle Rentals
Cars (€50/day) and scooters (€25/day) are available for rent in Livadia, but booking in advance in summer is recommended.
The roads are well-maintained and easy to navigate, with only a few sharp bends near the monastery.
3. Hiking
Hiking enthusiasts will appreciate Tilos’ five municipal trails.
The climb from Megalo Horio to the Castle (Route 4) is challenging but rewarding, offering stunning views.
Best Time to Visit Tilos
- High Season (June – August): Ideal for enjoying the island’s beaches and sunny weather without the typical summer crowds.
- Shoulder Season (April – May, September – October): Perfect for hiking, volunteering, or creative pursuits.
- Low Season (November – March): Quiet and serene, with a small community of around 200 residents.
Best Beaches on Tilos Island
1. Livadia Beach
Located at the main port, this long stretch of pebbles is framed by azure Aegean waters and tamarisk trees.
Restaurants, cafes, and shops line the promenade, making it the most accessible and lively beach on the island. It’s the only beach with dedicated beach bars.
2. Eristos Beach
Known for its sandy expanse and laid-back vibe, Eristos is perfect for those seeking a relaxed atmosphere. It’s popular among campers and naturists, with lush vegetation providing natural shade.
The En Plo restaurant near the beach serves excellent local dishes.
3. Agios Andonios Beach
This small, pebbly beach is located in the northern part of the island near the Agios Andonios settlement.
While it is less sheltered and subject to winds, its charm lies in its quiet ambiance and proximity to seaside taverns.
4. Plaka Beach
Accessible only by car or a short hike, Plaka Beach is a serene, pebbly haven known for its free-roaming peacocks.
The shallow waters feature large stone slabs, so swimming shoes are recommended. Many visitors stop here after visiting the Monastery of Agios Panteleimonas.
5. Tholos Beach
A secluded rocky beach on the western side of the island, Tholos is a haven for those seeking solitude.
Reaching it requires a 30-minute hike downhill, but the tranquility and unspoiled beauty make it worth the effort.
6. Skafi Beach
Nestled on the northeastern coast, Skafi Beach is accessible after a short hike from Megalo Horio.
Its calm waters and scenic surroundings make it a great spot for a peaceful swim.
Historical Highlights of Tilos
1. Castle of the Knights of Saint John
This late Byzantine-era fortress, located above Megalo Horio, offers panoramic views of the island and out to sea.
Accessible via a steep hike from the village, it is open year-round with no formal admission hours. Visitors can explore the ruins and take in the tranquil atmosphere.
2. The Elephant Museum and Charkadio Cave
Near Megalo Horio, this museum showcases the fascinating discovery of Europe’s last dwarf elephants, found in the nearby Charkadio Cave.
The museum operates daily from 10 AM to 2 PM during the summer season. Guided tours of the cave can be arranged in advance.
3. Archaeological Museum of Tilos
Located in the heart of Megalo Horio, this small but well-curated museum has a collection of artifacts from the Neolithic to Byzantine periods.
Open daily except Mondays, from 9 AM to 3 PM, it provides an excellent overview of the island’s historical significance.
4. Monastery of Agios Panteleimonas
Perched on a cliff on the western side of Tilos, this 15th-century monastery is accessible by car or a scenic hike (best done in the cooler months).
Visitors are welcome year-round, and the site features a beautifully restored church and peaceful courtyard.
Tilos Villages
1. Livadia
The bustling heart of Tilos and its primary port, Livadia is where most visitors choose to stay. Its promenade is lined with charming cafes, restaurants, and shops.
You can stroll through its quiet alleys, enjoy the vibrant beach bars, or relax on the long pebbly beach with azure waters. Ilidi Rock, nearby, is a prime spot for sunbathing or adventurous cliff-jumping.
2. Megalo Horio
As the island’s capital, Megalo Horio is rich in traditional architecture and local charm. Its whitewashed houses with blue accents are set against a backdrop of lush hills.
The village square is a lively meeting point, especially in the evenings, with local taverns offering authentic Greek dishes. The village is also home to the Archaeological Museum, where you can delve into Tilos’ long history.
The hike to the Castle of the Knights begins here, offering panoramic views.
3. Mikro Horio
This abandoned village, once a thriving community, is now a fascinating relic of Tilos’ past. By day, visitors can wander among the ruins, admire the restored church, and soak in the haunting, empty beauty of its abandoned stone structures.
By night, Mikro Horio transforms into a lively hub during the summer months, thanks to its unique open-air bar and disco.
This juxtaposition of history and nightlife makes it a must-visit for an unforgettable evening experience.
Tilos Cuisine
- Roast Goat: A must-try, especially at Kastro in Megalo Horio.
- Moussaka: The rendition at Delfini Tavern in Agios Antonios is exceptional.
- Greek Sweets and Coffee: Best enjoyed at Yalos Coffee Shop in Agios Antonios.
- Modern Greek Dishes: Almyriki Restaurant in Livadia offers traditional recipes with a creative twist.
How Long to Stay
Tilos can be explored in a three-night stay, but a week allows time to explore its villages, museums, and beaches.
Sample 3-Day Itinerary for Tilos
- Day 1: Arrive at Livadia, explore the village, and relax at Livadia Beach. Enjoy a traditional meal at Almyriki Restaurant.
- Day 2: Visit the Elephant Museum and Charkadio Cave. Spend the afternoon at Eristos Beach, followed by dinner at En Plo.
- Day 3: Hike to the Castle of the Knights of Saint John and explore Megalo Horio. End the day at Mikro Horio for a nightcap.
Practical Tips for Tilos Travelers
- Ferry Tips: Book ferries in advance, especially during high season.
- Clothing: Bring comfortable hiking shoes, swimwear, and sunscreen. Pack light but include layers for cooler evenings.
- Cash: While ATMs are available, it’s a good idea to carry cash for smaller shops and tavernas.
- Language: English is widely spoken, but learning a few Greek phrases can go a long way.
Visiting Tilos Greece: Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Is Tilos suitable for families?
Yes, the calm atmosphere and family-friendly beaches like Livadia make it a great choice.
What is the best way to get around?
The bus service is excellent, but renting a scooter or car provides more flexibility.
Are there luxury accommodations on Tilos?
Tilos focuses on simplicity. While there are no large resorts, boutique hotels and guesthouses offer comfortable stays.
Can I visit other islands easily?
Yes, Tilos is well-positioned for island hopping to Nisyros, Chalki, and Symi.
